My On-Going Computer Issues: a sequel, by Sp3ctre18

Sp3ctre18 · Joined: May 15, 2008 Posts: 27

for the past details and info on what was going on, please look skim through my HDD enclosure topic, and just skip anyting that was about cables or enclosures. VERY basically, i've had issues such as C partition space draining to 0, all malware and virus scans showing clean after disinfection months earlier, increasing random crashes, to the point that anything that used the HDD for a while, including any sort of scan, would crash the computer. It was common to face to face 4 restarts or so, while starting up comptuer or booting into windows, even if it was in the morning. finally, my user profile ocassioanlly would not load, loading only a default profile, and now claims it is not found, registry file corrupt, and no HD space to write to registry. Other profiles were fine, except for the crashing issues, though they seemed more stable. In a few days of use however, that profile also started having log in issues.
This is a Sony Vaio, PCV-RS 520, about 6 years old, Intel P4, Win XP home, Seagate 160 GB IDE HDD in 2 partitons.

Ok guys, thought I'd make a new topic for the desktop issues. Please still check back with the other topic if you see a new post, as I will keep using that for when i've got any more updates on the Usb Device recognition issues, or anything else regarding the cable and the HDD connecting through USB.

Now i'm working on the desktop as well, and want to give an update. in case you guys have any helpful comments.

After cleaning out dust and keeping the tower's cover off, i started up the computer again a couple times. No crashes. I ran AVG, 4 times since it acts weird (I've got AVG 7.5; AVG 8.0 won't install). I ran adaware. Successfully! found nothing but tracking cookies. Spybot, found some thing called "fakealert," and that was it. Removed succesfully. Now funning Kaspersky which tells me it won't finish till like 4 am in the morning...still no crashes. Things are looking good in this area. No more random crashes?

Now, let me make a point here that AVG is weird, and honeslty I've hated the interface and behavior of AVG 7, but luckily AVG 8 looks better (Which is on my laptop.) Once AVG finihses a scan, it tends to just, return to the screen where I choose what scan I want, and I have to go look for the test results myself. Sometimes however, the results don't show up, as if the scan was never done. Two scans I did today did show the results page when it finished, but it did not show up in the list of test results and thus I could not open it again later. However, it did say "threats found: 6" but under "moved to vault," "deleted," "Cleaned," and all that other stuff, it said 0. Huh?? At least now i've got kaspersky scanning. It's already found 11 things.

In the meantime, I've downloaded SpeedFan, not sure how well known it is, found in a PC World article online; a free program to check heat, fans, manage fan speeds, notify you in certain events, etc. The highest reading I see is 60C. According to quick google searches, that's a good, normal temp for Intel Pentium 4 - around 63C right now as the virus scan is going on; I read somewhere that P4 max temp is 64-78, though supposedly the can slow down so that overheating is theoretically impsosible? I found another website that reccomends a few program that can speed up your processor to 100% capacity so you can check it's temp, i might keep that around at least.

i'll make a point however, as i've said before, I did have crashes even when it's in the morning and only just starting it up. Remember I gave some details on my typical morning starting up the computer 5 times. That adds to doubt that heat was ever a real issue.

Yet, it's also a weird coincidence that the crashes have TOTALLY stopped so far, after opening up the computer, and cleaning out the dust. The only other thing i've done is disconnect the HDD's jumper and power cables since I tried using the IDE/SATA - USB adaptor cables, but I seriously doubt that had any effect.

So what say you gnomies? Could still be overheating? (Tomorrow, btw, I plan on putting the case cover back on and checking the heat.) What about the problems with profiles having issues loading? Smell like HDD damage, or could be something else?

PS: A quick scan on Bazooka scanner warns I've got a "wuamgrd.worm." pretty sure I had that before already; I'll have to remove that tomorrow.

PS #2: Woah, hey, I just scrolled sideways in the kaspersky scan windows, and found a column labeled "Corrupted." 63 on C partition, 24 on D partition...can't compare with external drive though because it hasn't scanned that yet. Does it sound like something to worry about though?

zzron357 · Joined: Oct 14, 2004 Posts: 24

Hi Sp3,
Yes, sounds like hdd issues. If you can, you might run chkdsk from a
BartPE disk. Also -- have you replaced the battery recently?
Low batteries cause strange things to happen. Your system is overdue.
Batteries last about 4 years, typically. Probably CR2032 type.
Best wishes, zzron357
(Yes, guys, I know I sound like I have batteries
on the brain. About once a week I get a system to fix and
the major problem is a bad battery. Lot's of folks don't know
they have a battery in there. Several have bought new pc's
because someone told them it would be more than $100 to fix.)

Sp3ctre18 · Joined: May 15, 2008 Posts: 27

might as well; i will run a chkdsk as you say.

Is there program i can download or some way to check how my battery is doing? I have sysmetrix, but doesn't seem like it does that (only laptop batteries.)

zzron357 · Joined: Oct 14, 2004 Posts: 24

Hi Sp3,
The battery is on the motherboard. Open box. Should be obvious,
a silver disk about 2 centimeters across. The CR2032 name I believe
comes from the size, 2.0 cm diam. and 3.2 mm thick. Some boards have the battery holder on edge, so not as obvious, but look everywhere and you
will find it. It is a 3 volt battery. Test with any voltmeter. New they read 3.2 volts. Replace if under 3 volts. If not ever done, just replace it. I put a little sticker inside the case with the date so I know when I last changed it.
Get new battery before removing old. the better battery holders have a little latch at edge, so easy to pop out old and snap in new. You will then need to check clock setting, and maybe go into "setup" and check settings there, as the battery keeps clock going, and maintains bios settings as well. It is the bios settings going bad that causes problems. Yes, run chkdsk. The BartPE disk I recommended allows you to do the test even if your os is not running.
Best wishes, zzron

Sp3ctre18 · Joined: May 15, 2008 Posts: 27

my father had some spare batteries they used in some special imaging glasses at work; it was the CR2032, 3 volt. I've replaced the battery just in case. HOWEVER, we tested the two batteries with two volt meters; one used a needle, the other had an LCD screen. The needle one showed both having around 2V, but the LCD one showed both exactly at 3.12V. That's....curious.... Confused

Sp3ctre18 · Joined: May 15, 2008 Posts: 27

Ran BartsPE and used chkdsk there. Well I don't know what happened, all it did at the end was tell me it was "done." I don't know if it made a log file somwhere, or if it found anything....

so I logged into windows, opened command prompt and ran chcksk from there. I typed only "chkdsk c:" so no /f or /r. It ran chkdsk within the command prompt, and it says it has found problems with the file system, and asks to type /f to fix tem.

However, I've always been worried about chkdsk and it's reparing functions. Aren't they dangerous? Could it make me lose data or do some other bad thing? Razz

EDIT: called Circuit City to see what the computer guy told me. He said that since the issues with connecting it to the laptop through USB is obivously unique to it and doesn't happen with other devices (and also happens on another laptop), the issues is of course, obivously with the cable or the HDD. Since there are already issues with the HDD, he suggests what's happening is a voltage spike that causes the USB to shut down, thus giving me the "usb device not recognized" error, and mentioning a malfunction. Even though chkdsk reporting only file system errors and no bad sectors, he still thinks it's a phyiscal issues. Specifically, not the HDD itself, but the circuit board on it, but either way, HDD could be dying. Either I find a way to do a better diagnostic, or i take my computer to Circuit City and pay them $60 to look at the computer. I think for now I'll try to dig up my restore CDs and see if there's a diagnostic utility there. Thoughts? comments?

EDIT #2: Decided to give it a shot and call back the guy and asked if he had an explanation for why the drive space would go down to 0. He said he knew, went to doublecheck with somene else. He says it's more proof the HDD is bad. He said it happens with phyiscal issues on the "cylinders" (never knew HDD had anything called that), either damage, or because of moisture, mold, and/or mildew. He said know he's pretty sure the HDD is just "Shot."

zzron357 · Joined: Oct 14, 2004 Posts: 24

Hi Sp3ctre,
I let M$ fix problems. Check with www.tacktech.com for link to hard drive
maker for test software if you do not already have a cd for that drive.
You can boot and run drive test independently of your OS.
While you are at it, get a ram test program, can boot from cd or floppy,
and run dos ram test. Memtest86 is a good one. M$ has one too. Bad ram can cause strange things too, and make a good hdd look like it has measles.
Knowing it is ok can help focus on real issues. I hope you have everything backed up in case you need a new hard drive. I just downloaded a new version of system rescue cd -- a linux boot cd -- which can partition and image hard drives. www.sysresccd.org 200 Mb iso Parted Magic is another handy linux based live cd.Best wishes, zzron

TeeDee

kenmabmcc

TeeDee

Hi Ken,

In the case that Sp3ctre18 mentioned, I believe that the low impedance (high load) of the analogue meter pulled the voltage down to well below the level the battery was capable of supplying to the very light load of the BIOS ROM - if the battery had been depleted, the figure of 3.12V on the DVM couldn't have been reached, no matter how high the meters impedance.

The best way to determine the 'available' voltage of a BIOS battery, I've found, is to take the reading with a high impedance DVM with the battery in circuit: that way, the meter has a negligible effect on the battery whilst giving a very accurate indication of the voltage available to the circuit under working (load) conditions.

kenmabmcc

Thanks TeeDee
Took my old brain a couple of reads of your post to understand the battery voltage was OK, but I got there.. Very Happy

ken

drwho07 · Joined: Nov 29, 2007 Posts: 1134 Location: Central FL, USA

I'm sure I share the thoughts of many computer techs, in that I just replace the cmos battery in any PC, over two years old, that comes across my bench.
(It's cheap insurance against call-backs, for a bad battery)

I buy those little CR-2032 batteries by the dozen, from a battery supplier, for about a dollar each. Wink

Only in a dire emergency, do I go to a retail store and buy them one or two at a time. (up to $3 each) Sad

I've not used an Analog meter since acquiring my first Digital VOM, oh so many years ago.
The difference between an acceptable voltage on a CMOS battery and a NON-acceptable voltage is only .1 vdc. An Analog meter just can't measure anything that small. And, yes, an analog meter will load down the battery much more than the CMOS chip itself, giving a lower reading than a Digital (High Impedance) meter.

I replace any cmos battery that can't come up to 3.0vdc on my Digital VOM.
It's cheaper to do it while I'm right there, than having to make a house-call to do it later.
If I have any reason to question a CMOS battery, while on a service call, I just go ahead and change it. NO Problemo!

Most CMOS batteries will come out easily, once you understand the mechanics of those little battery holders.
One side is fixed and the other side is spring loaded. So it's necessary to move the battery out from under the fixed part of the battery holder, by pressing it toward the spring loaded side.
A spring contact under the battery will then cause it to just "POP OUT".
Most batteries, I can take out with just my fingers....NO tools required.

There are at least a half dozen different varieties of holders for the CR2032.
Some are easier to deal with than others.
Keep metal tools away from your motherboard! Exclamation

Just one little slip can gouge a hole in the mobo, breaking circuits and ruining the board.

At least we got away from those @#%$&^ soldered in Ni'Cad batteries, that would get old, leak onto the mobo and ruin it. Crying or Very sad

Those were used a lot on the 286 and 386 mobo's.

You've not lived, as a tech, till you've had a mobo arc, spark and go up in smoke right in front of you, because the acid from the Ni'Cad battery had leaked out and shorted out the power strips on the mobo.
Yes, it DID happen to me! Crying or Very sad

Sorry, we got a bit off topic there! Embarassed

Cheers mates!
The Doctor Cool

Sp3ctre18 · Joined: May 15, 2008 Posts: 27

zzron357 · Joined: Oct 14, 2004 Posts: 24

Hi Spectre,
I read your other thread. I think I only repeated some of what drwho and Goretsky had said. Yes, Seagate tests should be good. Memtest86 just keeps on testing until you tell it to stop. I use it overnight most often. It can be used as a burnin. Maybe you found a problem. Start over and run it again,
long time. If temperature is rising, or timing shifting, you may see problems not otherwise visible. And, if other problems occur in the system, like a voltage surge, while memtest is running, a failure may occur and ram will get the blame. It is very hot here today. Lot's of air conditioners running.
No lightning.
Best wishes, zzron

drwho07 · Joined: Nov 29, 2007 Posts: 1134 Location: Central FL, USA

Sequel to the sequel.....

RAM testers only test one memory cell at a time. They don't load down the RAM with millions of cells active at once, like windows does.
That extreme loading can have totally different results than a memtest.

So, if Memtest gives just one little error, that's serious!

NEVER say "well, it got only one error, so it must be OK". WRONG!!!!!

I've talked about this so many times before that I'm not going into the details again, but your RAM sits (usually) right next to the CPU.
The cooling fan on the CPU sucks in DIRT from the surrounding air and blows it thru the cooling fins on the heatsink....some of that dirt will stick to the heatsink and some of it gets blasted against the near side of the ram sticks. If there are bare ram chips on that side, they will become covered with dirt. Dirt getting in between those tiny little legs on the ram chips can be as conductive as a copper wire to those ram chips.
(again, I won't go into the technical, why's and wherefore's .)

Someone posted a picture of their motherboard recently, where they were having some sort of problem. I was horrified at the dirt on the sides of the RAM chips closest to the CPU. You could hardly make out the chips under all the dirt! Crying or Very sad

I've saved countless sticks of ram that appeared to be failing, by just washing away the dirt on them. Likewise, the ram on a Video Card.

I even opened a thread here in LG Forums, some time back, going into great detail of how I "wash ram".
Millions of $'s, maybe even Billions of $'s are spent every year on replacing ram that's only just DIRTY.
I wish I had all those ram sticks here..... I could be a millionaire over night. Wink

Sorry, off topic again. Ok, so ban me!

The Doctor Cool

PS: I did a google search on that thread about washing ram, but couldn't find it.